While I was in Tallinn in February and May 2001 to
report on the country's military and economy, I also wanted to get
some cultural reporting in. I was fascinated by how such a small
country could have such an advanced music and cultural scene. Here
are some shots of Tallinn spaces that I'd tried to sell with a story
to some music and culture magazines. They didn't buy the story,
but at least I had the excuse to wander around the city and do "research"
on great places to drink gin & tonics and listen to downtempo
music.
One place I didn't get pictures from is "The Nightman,"
a dance club a little way out of the city centre that played solid
drum & bass and hosted a great crowd. It was a wild night and
I regret I didn't bring my camera. Unfortunately the scene changes
from day to day, because Hannah, Holly and I tried to get in again
the night after I'd been there and the music was a big disappointment. |
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Pegasus, just over a year old, is probably the most
stylish space in Estonia. By day, the café/restaurant serves
rarefied international cuisine to the expatriate and diplomatic set.
On Friday and Saturday nights Tallinn's young and beautiful come to
rub shoulders to guest DJ's spinning house and downtempo. |
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Arne Jacobsen's "The Egg" chair peeks out
from a corner of the bar area. |
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Sushi and "The Egg" for a light lunch at
Pegasus. |
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Mart and Michael, two of the three owners of Pegasus,
talking shop in the bar. |
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The spiral staircase leads up to the first floor restaurant
area. |
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Pegasus was remodelled from a writers' café
which was here when Estonia was a Soviet Republic. It is said this
was one of the few places intellectuals could speak their minds without
getting hauled off to Siberia. The current owners restored some of
the original sculpture and use the space to show works by local artists. |
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Out-of-the-way bar seating on the ground floor. |
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One side of the first floor eating space. The large
picture windows let the Tallinners below gaze upwards at the delectable
dishes inside- and the food of course. |
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Spirit is another bar/club/café perched
just outside of old town Tallinn. The space was created by the "Rhythm
Doctor," an expatriate British DJ, and two Estonian colleagues.
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Entranceway to Spirit. |
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Sit down and page through a selection of international
design and culture mags while eating your shrimp and apple pasta and
waiting for the call from the Embassy. |
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Bar staff at Spirit. |
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On weekend nights a two-level club next to the bar
comes online. Scantily clad club kids line up to sweat to the mad
house music inside. |
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More sedately styled is Elevant. The Indian restaurant
serves up dishes that are actually spicy (rare for Central Europe),
with a heavy dose of sweet downtempo on the sound system. |
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Lovely diners Holly and Hannah at Elevant. |
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If you have an urge to return to the bygone days of
'80s industrial design, go no further than VS. Is that New Order he's
playing? No. It's hip-hop and house. |
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Have dinner in airline seating- you needn't even bring
your passport. |