September 07, 2004

The Kyoto scene

This has been slowly simmering in there for a long time, and hit me this afternoon in between meetings at work. I think it was a conversation with Cecilie last night, about what makes Brian Eno's On Land album special, that really made the breakthrough.






Thinking about it now, everything about that day felt as if it had an essence of strange clarity to it... the solid, pleasant soreness in his limbs and loins from fucking Mona hard the night before in the cheap Roppongi district hotel. The sound of the traffic outside and sunlight flashing from the angled windows of cars. As they left the taxi in front of Shinjuku station, Thomas saw an old woman standing to the side of the inrushing weekday crowd, one arm extended as tiny brown sparrows took crumbs from her hand. Inside Shinjuku, rays of early morning sunlight filtered through the cigarette smoke. Everyone in the crowd shuffled towards their platforms with the unthinking economy of long practice. He scanned their faces, busy, happy, bored, beautiful, seeming to Thomas as if surrounded by faint cocoons of light, each of them individual and unique.

What had it been, the thing building up inside him? How had he known what was going to happen later that day in Kyoto? Thomas had felt almost post-ecstatic as his Shinkansen tore down the Japanese countryside, Mona's head lolling against his shoulder as he stared out the window at the foreign geometric countryside. The rapid hum click from the engine and wheels-on-rails was like the backbeat of a good dance club track, throbbing, almost subliminal. He was transfixed by the morning sunlight, flashing staccato on his face as it flickered through the slender trunks of cedars on the side of the railway, the train tearing through a forest thirty minutes past Nagoya at a propeller plane's cruise speed. That flashing moment stretched, creeping up on him slowly. But then surrounded by the gestalt of sound and flickering light he felt himself expand somehow with the sensation... he was at once man and girl and train and forest and light... At first it was as if he could see all around him at once, and then it was as if he could see through it all...

It lasted only a moment before the Shinkansen tore out into a plain dotted with industrial towns as it approached Kyoto, but the moment had been there, and as he and Mona stepped out from the glass and steel abstractness of Kyoto station, he'd felt different, changed.

Myoshinji was much larger than he'd been prepared for. When Mona described it as a "temple," she'd not brought across the scale of the 40-in-one temple complex, and it had been busier than he'd expected—more tourists and less ascetic formality. But then some time in the late afternoon when the sunlight was angled flat again, and Mona had tired of telling him about her Japanese childhood—her dad's alcohol problem and mom's retreat from the world into Buddhism—and they'd just been standing still for a moment in the shadow of a big orange pagoda with unreadable, kanji-encrusted walls... it was then that a huge brass bell had been struck somewhere nearby, and that's what had done it for him.

The two-tone hi-freq buzz lo-freq rumble washed over him in a moment of fatigue... he was tired and thirsty and had given up on thinking and just was... Maybe he was still feeling a little rarified and abstract from the morning's sun-through trees experience. But the two-tone sound of that bell, the sudden clarity and foreverness at once... like a rogue wave crashing on a beach, like his ears popping clear of moisture hours after swimming as a boy, like the moment of waking and remembering the night's whole dream in all its scintillant complex repose, like an old friend's voice suddenly amazed, breathing the words "of course!"... The sound found him ready and did its work.

When he came to, he was cradled in Mona's arms. She was fanning him with a tourist map and asking him in worried tones to respond. It took a few moments for him to be able to focus, but when her face came through it was dark in silhouette, the strong lines of her jaw suggested rather than drawn by the sunlight radiant behind her head, filtered through the corona of her dark hair like a halo.

"My God, Mona... It's as if we are stars..."

The first thing he was able to whisper, and the one and only coherent image he was ever able to bring back from the garden, the ten thousand Buddhas smiling in their ancient sleep as he struggled for words. He realized almost immediately that the language did not yet exist for him to tell her what he then understood, and that, through the sudden painful joy of unexpected knowledge, brought its own sadness.

The moment couldn't last and it didn't. He had not been prepared for the garden but stumbled into it through a back door. Much was lost too quickly. But even now after all that happened, all the desolation and exquisite agony of the last few years, he still remembers. He doesn't remember the garden itself, for that is a thing inaccessible outside the now and therefore forbidden to memory, but he remembers, will always remember, the sound, the light.

Posted by case at September 7, 2004 12:40 AM
Comments

nice... now can you put a drinkable form of that in a bottle and ship it to me?

Posted by: jeremy at September 8, 2004 11:51 PM

Aaahhh. :)

Thanks.

Posted by: Deborah at September 8, 2004 09:17 PM